A New Blog Look and a New Kitten

Well, spring has finally sprung and lots has happened since I last posted here. Bored with the old blog appearance, I opted for a new one. More importantly, however, is the news on the cat front: last fall, two of our three old cats, Black Bear (my favorite, ahem) and Little Girl, passed away within a week of each other.

Late in October, Bear started acting differently. A subtle change at first, but I noticed. I also had a feeling that it was not just a couple of "quiet days" that cats have now and then. Always a healthy eater, I knew he was in trouble when he began leaving some of his dinner on his plate. When he was six years old, he had been a "plugged" cat, suffering from Feline Urological Syndrome and had to be rushed to the animal hospital to be catheterized lest he die of uremia. Since that time, he had been on daily methionine to acidify his urine. Now, he was nearly 14 years old. I had a sinking feeling that the old problem had returned and morphed into kidney failure.

J. and I took him to our holistic veterinarian, who took blood for liver and kidney function tests. Two days later, I received the news: terminal kidney failure. The vet said his numbers were off the charts, and it was amazing that he had done as well as he had for so long. I attributed that fact to the homemade diet he had been on for the past few years. Once I calmed down, I called back and made an appointment to euthanize him. It was three days hence, and I was determined to spoil him like crazy before the end of his life.

He was still eating, so we gave him all the neat treats we could think of: canned cat food, canned fish snacks, etc. He was pampered more than ever (quite a feat, I assure you). When the time came to bundle him off to the vet, we were sad, but knew we had done all that we could to give him a great life. I had hoped he would live to 20 years, but the end came quickly and he was in fine fettle until almost the very end.

Little Girl, who had been having some recurrence of urinary tract problems herself during the previous summer, became despondent over his loss. The only female, she had "belonged" to Bear, the alpha male, and was despondent without him. She would wait for him, and cry when he didn't appear. She stopped eating. Soon, her kidneys failed, as well; we had her put to sleep less than a week after Bear. To those who claim that animals cannot love, I have this to say: You are dead wrong.

Poor J. buried two cats in one week, the second one on his birthday. As he trudged up the driveway after putting out Miss P.'s trash, looking lost and depressed, I said, "Let's go out to lunch and stop by the shelter to see what they have on hand for kittens." He looked surprised, but agreed. No way was I going to let him remember his birthday only as the day he buried Miss Thing! So, off we went--and found ourselves a cute little bargain.

Next time: A new playmate for Goldie.

Read This Before You Try to Pill Your Cat

I received this email "joke" from my sister-in-law and thought I'd share it. It's true enough to be funny, for sure. Every cat lover has had a cat that was resistant to medicating; ours was Sweet Pea. She wasn't quite as bad as the cat in this story, but then we'd usually quit after step 3! You could get her the first time, but never again...that cat had a memory like a steel trap!

So Funny I Cried!

How to Give a Cat a Pill

1. Pick up cat and cradle it in the crook of your left arm as if holding a baby.

Position right forefinger and thumb on either side of cat’s mouth and gently apply pressure to cheeks while holding pill in right hand. As cat opens mouth, pop pill into mouth.

1 Allow cat to close mouth and swallow.

2. Retrieve pill from floor and cat from behind sofa.

Cradle cat in left arm and repeat process.

3. Retrieve cat from bedroom, and throw soggy pill away.

4. Take new pill from foil wrap, cradle cat in left arm, holding rear paws tightly with left hand.

Force jaws open and push pill to back of mouth with right forefinger. Hold mouth shut for a count of ten.

5. Retrieve pill from goldfish bowl and cat from top of wardrobe.

Call spouse in from the garden.

6. Kneel on floor with cat wedged firmly between knees, hold front and rear paws.

Ignore low growls emitted by cat. Get spouse to hold head firmly with one hand while forcing wooden ruler into mouth. Drop pill down ruler and rub cat's throat vigorously.

7. Retrieve cat from curtain rail.

Get another pill from foil wrap. Make note to buy new ruler and repair curtains. Carefully sweep shattered figurines and vases from hearth and set to one side for gluing later.

8. Wrap cat in large towel and get spouse to lie on cat with head just visible from below armpit.

Put pill in end of drinking straw, force mouth open with pencil and blow down drinking straw

9. Check label to make sure pill not harmful to humans and drink one beer to take taste away. Apply band-aid to spouse's forearm and remove blood from carpet with cold water and soap.

10. Retrieve cat from neighbor's shed.

Get another pill. Open another beer. Place cat in cupboard, and close door onto neck, to leave head showing. Force mouth open with dessert spoon. Flick pill down throat with elastic band.

11. Fetch screwdriver from garage and put cupboard door back on hinges. Drink beer. Fetch bottle of scotch. Pour shot, drink.

Apply cold compress to cheek and check records for date of last tetanus shot. Apply whiskey compress to cheek to disinfect. Toss back another shot. Throw tee-shirt away and fetch new one from bedroom.

12. Call fire department to retrieve the damn cat from the top of the tree across the road. Apologize to neighbor who crashed into fence while swerving to avoid cat.

Take last pill from foil wrap.

13. Using heavy-duty pruning gloves from shed, tie the little *&#%^'s front paws to rear paws with garden twine and bind tightly to leg of dining table. Push pill into mouth followed by large piece of filet steak. Be rough about it. Hold head vertically and pour two pints of water down throat to wash pill down.

14. Consume remainder of scotch. Get spouse to drive you to the emergency room. Sit quietly while doctor stitches fingers and forearm and removes pill remnants from right eye. Call furniture shop on way home to order new table.

15. Arrange for RSPCA to collect mutant cat from hell and call local pet shop to see if they have any hamsters.


How To Give A Dog A Pill

1. Wrap it in bacon.

2. Toss it in the air.

Make Moving Day Easy on Your Cats

Change is stressful for all of us, and moving ranks right up there with other life changes such as marriage and divorce. While you and your human family members can at least understand what is going on, your cats cannot and feel the stress more acutely. Since more people move during the summer months than at any other time of the year, this seems like a good time to go over some tips to make moving day flow as smoothly as possible, especially for your feline family members.

Keep your cats' things in their normal places as long as possible. Don't move their beds, feeding stations or litter boxes until the movers arrive (or right before). All the activity of packing will be stressful enough for them without them having to hunt for their food and boxes.

Feed them a light snack the morning of the move, or nothing at all if they tend to vomit when upset. Give fresh water, of course. If they tend toward nervousness, give them a quarter of a Calms Forte tablet each 2 to 3 hours before the movers are due to arrive. If they are difficult to pill, grind it up and mix with a small amount of their favorite wet food.

When the movers arrive, set the cats up in an empty room with their water, beds and litter box. Frightened cats can get underfoot, causing injury to themselves and others. They may also run out the door in a panic, never to be seen again. Spare them and yourself this trauma by keeping them in a closed room to which no one but you is allowed access. Placing their carriers in this room will make packing them up later easier still.

Pack up your cats and move them separately to the new location, ahead of the movers. Once there, set them up in a room that won't be entered, such as a large bathroom, as far away from the hubbub as possible. Stay with them until the movers arrive, then check on them whenever there is a lull in the action; this will help calm them.

Don't let them out until the movers have gone and outside doors are not being constantly opened and closed. Show them where their boxes are now located, and place their beds and water nearby. Don't feed them until they calm down a bit, or you'll have messes to clean up, for sure.

By the way, this is the perfect time to make changes to their lifestyle, such as making them indoor-only cats if they were not so before. The combination of upheaval and a new environment makes old habits less sticky, making them more open to other changes, as well!
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Are Veterinary Tests Reliable?

The tendency of some diseases, such as kidney/liver failure and diabetes, to make our cats very ill leads some to rely on blood testing to detect early signs of these problems. When I worked for veterinarians many years ago, kidney and liver function tests were offered as a way to discover early, behind-the-scenes changes before symptoms started. Cats were often checked for unusual blood sugar levels, as well. Since these tests were very expensive then, I assume they are more so now. Therefore, it seems reasonable to ask: Are these tests worth the cost? That is, are they a good predictor of disease?

Unlike diabetes, liver and kidney failure have no real treatment except nutritional therapy. Thus it is desirable to detect early signs of disease in order to start therapy as quickly as possible. For liver disease, often blood tests look for increased bilirubin in the blood, which causes jaundice. However, jaundice can be present without hepatic disease. Other values that would be tested would be alanine aminotransferase, which according to Dr. Donald Strombeck, is an enzyme particular to the liver. High blood ammonia levels are also indicative of liver problems.

For renal failure, urinalysis can show whether the urine is too dilute, indicating that the kidneys are unable to concentrate urine properly. Blood urea and creatinine levels rise with kidney disease, and the illness also caused elevated blood levels of potassium, phosphorus and calcium, generally excreted by the kidneys. High levels of sugar in the urine usually means diabetes, but not always. The only way to be certain is to test the blood, a much more complicated test.

Usually the presence of these particular entities are measured on a scale, giving an idea of how advanced the disease is at the time of testing. I have found that this is often misleading, as when Sweet Pea's levels indicated mild renal failure, yet she was gravely ill within one month of the test. My great aunt's cat died of kidney failure at 13, while her veterinarian (with whom I spoke) declared over and over that her blood values were "fine".

So, is it worth doing these tests? Since the first noticeable symptoms of all three of these diseases are very similar (increased water consumption and urine output, loss of appetite/weight, depression), it might be helpful to test in order to rule in favor or against any particular problem. However, since there may be other ways for the vet to diagnose which disease is afflicting your pet, it may not be necessary. You will do better putting the money you saved into purchasing the best ingredients you can to create a holistic, home made diet for your sick pet!
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Cat Hair, Everywhere

One of the many reasons that we love cats is because of their soft, downy fur. What cat lover can resist rubbing their noses in that fluff? And all cat lovers admire the long-haired breeds for their beauty and royal bearing, even if they are not up to the task of coping with all that extra (and extra-long) hair.

The downside to having cats around is the plethora of cat hair that one must deal with. The same attributes that make car fur so darn touchable also seem to make the stuff stick to everything: Clothing, bed linens, rugs, furniture upholstery, etc. When it doesn't stick, like on bare floors, the result is swirling clouds of dust bunnies and fur that you must constantly keep ahead of, lest it float around with every step you take. Even when you do keep on top of it, it insidiously finds its way under appliances and furnishings.

Not only does cat hair coat every bit of fabric around, it also becomes embedded in the weave of the material, which makes it doubly hard to remove. How many times have you just changed your clothes before going out, rather than face the challenge of removing even 75% of the cat hair that had insinuated itself into your shirt? Over the years, I have found a few ways to cope with these hairy problems. Here are a few things that I have found to be helpful in the daily cat-hair-control-chore department:

1. Comb or brush your cat a few times a week. If you have a long-haired cat, this is necessary anyway, or you'll wind up with mats and a very expensive grooming bill. Cats shed hair constantly, just like we do, but combing or brushing really does help grab a bunch of the loose stuff so that it can be bunched up and thrown away, rather than taking up space in your expensive vacuum cleaner bags.

2. Use the right vacuum for your floor type. If you have carpets, buy an upright style; bare floors need the attentions of a canister model. If you have a mix, say of bare floor and area rugs, choose a canister model. The job will be much less taxing if you use the right tools.

3. Vacuum often. 'Nuff said.

4. Dust mop in between vacuumings. Microfiber and fleece are incredible fur magnets, so I buy fleece baby blankets at the dollar store, cut them up, and use them with my "Swiffer" mop to rid the house of cat hair when there's no time to vacuum. Shake them out and wash with your regular wash. They last quite a while.

5. Damp sponge your upholstery. Dampen a cellulose sponge and rub, in one direction, on your upholstery to rid it of cat hair. The sponge pulls the hair right out of the fabric, and you can vacuum up the resultant pile.

6. Use lint rollers wisely. They're great for clothes, but don't use on your furniture as they will eventually leave a sticky residue that attracts dirt and hair.

7. Keep your cats indoors. The moderation of indoor temperature really cuts down on the shedding season - another plus in favor of indoor cats!

8. Don't worry about it too much. After all, it's only cat hair.
Chat later!

More Internet Myths About Feline Nutrition

Many articles online regarding feline nutrition seem to cluster around the question of whether commercial canned diets or dry food products are "better" for cats. Many authors use the existence of the Association of American Feed Control Officials (NAAFCO) as proof positive that commercially prepared diets are not only adequate, but something above that. After all, if the product is prepared according to this entity's standards, it must be good, right? Of course, as covered here previously in other posts on feline nutrition, the NAAFCO is nothing more than an industry trade group, whose main raison d'etre is to create a product that sells well. If this means that the product must not cause death or illness in the pets of the consumers that buy it (it does), then, of course, that becomes a primary goal. They have learned from past fiascos such as the taurine deficiency and tuna-vitamin E incidents that they must be a bit more careful with their product, but only because of the dire results that ensued. They did not use science to improve their product; the scramble to fix the problem resulted from economics, i.e., a loss of market share. Where were their "guidelines" when manufacturers were adding melamine to cat food to raise the protein content?

Other writers suggest that a homemade diet is healthier for cats than the commercial stuff. So far, so good. Unfortunately, instead of pointing the reader in the direction of research and fact-finding, some of these authors attempt to give advice about making cat food at home. This advice mainly consists of cooking many types of meat thoroughly, mixing them together in a blender or food processor, and feeding the resultant mixture to your cat. While these authors usually note that cats are carnivores, they obviously believe that this means that cats can eat only meat, and thrive. Hopefully, these articles will merely encourage those who are interested in homemade diets to look further, not actually follow the advice offered.

Many of these articles suggest making some of portion of your cat's diet and using this to augment a commercial diet. This, of course, is better than nothing, but one still needs to learn the basics of feline nutrition before setting out on this journey. While many of these authors caution against feeding only a homemade diet, they say this not because they necessarily believe that a commercial diet is healthier, but because they feel that the average cat owner cannot possibly figure out how to formulate such a diet. This is nonsense. Even pet owners with no background in nutrition or physiology can read books by those that do. There are many good books out there that even give sample recipes and menus, and many are written by veterinarians.

Don't discontinue your online research when it comes to caring for your cat. Just be discerning about what you read (this goes for any subject, really!). And remember the old research standby: Borrow a few books on cat nutrition from your local library and read them. When you find a couple that you really like, buy them and refer to them often. Sometimes, the old-fashioned way is still best!
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Myths About Cats Abound on the Internet

I love doing research on the internet. I love reading and researching anyway, and have spent many hours over the years doing just that in numerous libraries. Internet research, however, allows me to do this type of work in the comfort of my own home. I don't need to drive anywhere - heck, I don't even have to change out of my jammies. It's quick (relatively), and I don't have to return the books to the stacks afterward. However, I can't always rely on the authenticity of the information I find.

The very nature of the web allows anyone with access to a computer to instantly publish anything they want - be it interesting, boring, offensive, true or untrue. Hence, there is a lot of "junk" online that purports to be the gospel truth about any given subject. Many of us are able to sift through this morass and extract the gems, but many others cannot. That is why it is so very important to critically examine everything you read on the internet.

I often run across articles regarding feline nutrition, for example, that contain the same myths and misinformation that we have heard many times before. Recently, I read an article that was encouraging readers to feed their cats dry food because it cleans their teeth. The author, who claimed to have worked with the SPCA at one time, claimed that cats on wet-food-only diets have premature dental problems. She claimed that cats in the wild "chew on large bones" to clean their teeth naturally, and dry cat food takes the place of this activity in the domesticated life of our cats.

Can you see anything wrong with this logic? For one thing, how would wild cats obtain "large bones"? Cats are small animals and thus hunt animals smaller than themselves. Small rodents and birds have bones that the cat consumes for its calcium content. But, as any cat owner with outdoor cats knows, they do not eat the largest bone - the skull. That is always left behind. It is simply not in their nature, and it is not necessary. If one were to apply this logic further, one could claim that cats love tuna because their wild ancestors were often invited on deep-sea fishing excursions! It is true, of course, that cats were often part of the sea-faring crew, long ago, in order to control the mouse and rat populations on board. It is possible that they were given some nuggets of fish to eat on occasion, as well. But their main diet consisted of vermin, which is what they naturally hunt, anyway. The only reason that domesticated cats love tuna is because cat food manufacturers use the remains of the huge tuna fish processing industry as cheap cat food ingredients. Normally, a cat would never even see a tuna, never mind eat one.

Tomorrow: More myths and half-truths regarding feline nutrition.
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Conversations With Your Cat

Do you talk to your cat? Most cat owners do (so do dog owners, by the way), so don't be embarrassed. Does your cat answer you when you speak to him? If so, you are one of the elite group of people that regularly have conversations with their cats.

Many people who talk to their cats don't realize that it is very easy to teach their pet to respond to their speech. It is well known, for instance, that certain breeds like the Siamese are particularly talky, sometimes to the point of annoyance. For those of us with chatty cats, we recognize that having our cats "answer" our questions only highlights the close bond we enjoy with these intelligent animals. While it is true that some cats are naturally talkative, it is also true that any cat can be trained to "converse" with its owner.

Our cats are very communicative, especially the Bear. He will seem to be asleep, but will sense when I walk by and greet me with a faint, "Brrrriiiiinnngg?" Usually, I will respond by petting him, which encourages further comments. Although I suspect our passel has Siamese somewhere in their lineage because of their triangular faces, I also know that we actively encouraged this back-and-forth chatting behavior and that is the real reason that they "speak" to us.

Try this yourself: Start the training when your cat is in a naturally chatty mood, say, around mealtime. As you are preparing his meal, pause and ask him a question. It could be anything; it's the upward lilt at the end that prompts your cat to respond. Repeat this training at other times when he is receptive, like when he is looking for attention. Once your cat understands what is expected of him, you'll be able to start up a conversation at almost any time. Just for fun, see how long you can keep him responding to your questions - some cats won't give up until you do!

At Miss P.'s house for brunch, we recently met some friends of hers who shared their "cat chat" story. The husband, D., recounted how he would get up early for work and shut himself in the bathroom to quietly get ready. One day, his wife's pet cat demanded entry and started a new routine: He would sit on the closed toilet seat and converse with D. until he was done shaving and so forth. After D. left, the cat would wait until the wife, C., took her morning bath and repeated the scenario. It was a great story, and both husband and wife obviously enjoyed this activity immensely. No training was necessary for this cat - he initiated the chats himself. This is just another example why we call our pets "companion" animals!
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More on Cats and Water

For an animal that supposedly doesn't like getting wet, many cats actually do have an affinity for water. After writing yesterday's post, I started thinking about this fact. Sure, you don't generally see cats jump into bodies of water like dogs do, but cats have not been trained for centuries by humans to track and retrieve game, either. Even if they had, though, I doubt the training would have had any effect!

Neither do cats usually enjoy bathing, at least the type that we perform on them. Of course, cats are self-cleaning and therefore don't really need baths, anyway. All the same, many house cats love to play in water, at least on occasion. For instance, Sweet Pea would often walk around the edge of the tub as I was exiting the shower, all the while playing with the drips of water she found there. Black Bear loves to play in the large water dish in the cellar, and his splashing around makes quite a mess. Miss P.'s new kitty, Libby, will immediately jump into the kitchen sink as soon as she hears the water running. This is very amusing, and if I let the faucet do a slow drip, she will get soaked as she tries to catch each drop as it falls. Miss P.'s countertops are now sprinkled with dried little paw prints, courtesy of Libs.

There is even a particular cat breed that loves water: The Turkish Van. I remember reading somewhere that these cats become avid swimmers if introduced to this activity as kittens. Candida Frith-Macdonald notes (in her book, The Ultimate Guide to Cats) that the original breeder, Laura Lushington, commented on the fact that these cats, "...have been known to enter ponds and even horse-troughs for a swim". If you have never seen these cats, you may be surprised to see that they have long, fluffy, thick coats, and resemble the Ragdoll. Personally, I would expect a swimming cat to have a sleek coat, but this is not the case with this breed. I will add that these cats are exceptionally sweet-looking, and look extremely cuddly.
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Of Wet Floors and Cat Paws

Once again, as I was mopping floors last Saturday, the cats had to get themselves involved. When I got to the bottom of the stairs, for instance, the Bear comes pha-lumping down, obviously unable to wait until the stairs dried. What is it about wet floors that makes cats need to get from point A to point B immediately, while leaving paw prints all over the damp floor?

For one thing, I think it has to do with curiosity. Cats note when something different is going on, and usually feel required to check it out. One might think that cats would make an exception when it comes to wet floors, since many cats dislike getting wet. That being said, I have never had a cat that disliked wet paws enough to avoid walking directly through a freshly mopped surface. Also, I have been mopping these floors on a weekly basis for the entire lives of these cats, yet they still get nosy about the procedure.

Another of my theories is that they just want attention. I have noticed that the closer to their supper time the floor washing occurs the more they tend to run across the damp floors. Yelling doesn't help, of course. They're willing to put up with it because they know they're going to get fed, no matter what. Plus, they get to annoy me into the bargain!

Years ago, before I realized that less is more when it comes to cleaning hardwood floors, the cats involved would get much wetter feet than the current bunch do. I remember my other cats doing the leg-shake, then madly licking their paws, ostensibly to dry them faster. They really weren't all that wet, plus they could have avoided the whole thing by just staying out of the room. But, cats are single-minded creatures, and determined to do things their way. It's just one of those little things we love about them.
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Is Your Cat a "Moggie"?

The other night, J. and I were watching an episode of "MI5", a British spy series from the early 2000s that our pal, Miss P., has gotten us addicted to. While the cadre of spies was breaking into a house in order to place some "bugs", they inadvertently let the cat out. Naturally, the cat had to be caught and put back inside before they left or else the inhabitants would know something was up when they arrived back home. During the hunt that ensued, one of the characters referred to the cat as the "moggie". I immediately started wondering where I had come across that term before. The first place I checked, as I usually do for such little trivia bits concerning cats, was my well-used copy of Catlore by Desmond Morris. Sure enough, on the very last page of the book, was a chapter entitled, "Why is a Nonpedigreed Cat Called a Moggie?".

Obviously a term of English origin, Morris notes that "mongrel", a word used most often when referring to dogs of undistinguished lineage, is actually the correct term for nonpedigreed cats, as well. For some reason, however, Brits tend to use moggie, or moggy, when speaking of cats. Although Morris doesn't say so, it seems that the term could be an adulteration of the term, "mongrel". He states that the exact origin of moggie is unknown, and first appeared as a local variation of the name "Maggie". The original meaning, "a disheveled old woman", could also refer to a scarecrow in some regions. He postulates that, since the term became common in referring to unkempt alley cats that littered London's streets around the turn of the last century, many Londoners thought it fitting to compare cats to scarecrows and old ladies (marking another historical linking of cats and old women).

Morris notes that between the two world wars, the term was shortened to "mogs", but again morphed back into the longer version sometime after World War II. Apparently, it is still in use today. So, if you want to dazzle friends and acquaintances with your knowledge of feline trivia, try calling the host's cat a moggie. I'll bet you'll be the life of the party! Well, two of my moggies just arrived upstairs to let me know it's time for dinner, so, cheerio for now.
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More Advantages to a Homemade Diet

Whenever I take care of someone else's cats, I am always reminded of how yucky commercial cat food is. Despite the inconvenience of having to make your cat's food from scratch, there are many advantages to doing so. Regular readers already know the health and nutritional pluses of a homemade diet. As if those were not enough, I have a few more for you!

For one thing, the mess associated with leaving cat food out all the time is astounding. Since cats aren't really built to chew on dry cat food pellets, they wind up turning their heads this way and that trying to grind this junk-food product with a carnivore's teeth. This, as I remember well, winds up spreading bits of dry cat food here and yon. And that's not even counting the pieces of food that get batted around the house!

Canned cat food is another matter altogether. I had almost forgotten how gross it smells! Unless you clean those cans out really, really well, your trash (or, hopefully, your recycling bin) will stink. Re-hydrating the leftover cement-food in the bowl by soaking it in the sink is also an adventure, since adding water seems to renew the smell, too. Then, there's the "cat-food breath". Cats on homemade diets have sweet-smelling breath, unlike those who eat commercial food. And, if you are like me and like to snuggle with your cats, waiting a while after mealtimes is a must if you don't want to smell Fluffy's canned cat food dinner in her fur!

There is also the other end of the smell issue: The litter box. Cats on commercial diets tend to have bowel movements that are a bit stinky. There's a reason there are so many cat-litter box deodorizers and and scented cat litter brands on the market! Because there are so many fillers in the food, the stool is also much larger than it would be if the cat was hunting for itself. Homemade food produces small, nearly neutral smelling stool. Since the animal is extracting almost everything from the food, there is little waste to pass out of the other end. I certainly don't miss the days of smelly cat boxes, that's for sure.

All the above reasons are selfish, really, since they address our concerns as pet owners rather than the needs of our companions. But making homemade cat food is work, and we should get some extra benefits for this additional effort (besides healthy, long-lived cats). So, during the dog days of summer when the garbage is smelling up the house and/or attracting wildlife on the back deck, remember this article. You may just decide to cook up a treat for Fluffy after all.
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Cute Kittens Trying to Kill Each Other

Each year, we treat ourselves to one expensive wall calendar, the subject of which is "kittens". This one becomes the main calendar, hanging in the kitchen near the phone and getting lots of views. As we go through each month, we discuss which photos we like the best. Of course, they are all great - after all, they are pictures of kittens. But, invariably, we both pick favorites that have a unifying theme: Cute Kittens Trying to Kill Each Other.

As you may have guessed, these pictures involve kittens at play. Usually, there are two of them, probably siblings. One of the kittens is either ready for action, or totally clueless; the other is springing into attack mode. The other scenario is that one kitten is actively biting and mauling the other, most often with claws visible and and an ear in his mouth. We find these photos immensely entertaining, particularly since we have had kittens and know exactly what is going on here: Play with a purpose.

For all young animals, play is how they learn to get along in the world. The essence of communication is learned early in order that the caregiver will know what the youngster needs and wants. Human babies, for instance, make many sounds long before they learn speech, all of which are geared toward inspiring the parents to care for and ensure his/her survival. Animals don't "speak" per se, but learn communication skills the same way. They also need to learn how to stalk, hunt and kill prey in order to survive. That's where their siblings come in.

Much of kitten play is geared toward the hunting process. At the same time, the issue of dominance is being determined. Note which kitten seems to be on "top" most of the time (hint: It will be a male if there is one in the group), and you will have a good idea of who is going to be Top Cat. This makes perfect sense, since the cat on top of the pile is most likely to be the best hunter and fighter, and thus more apt to be in demand with the ladies. It's all about procreation, after all!

Letting your kittens go crazy on each other is really fun to watch. Even though this activity is entertaining and necessary, however, it can get a little rough. Most of the time, no injuries are sustained during play-fighting, but sometimes, someone does get hurt. Corneal injuries are most common, since kittens flail at each other with claws extended. These usually heal with no lasting effects, but may necessitate a trip to the veterinarian.

Therefore, it is incumbent upon you to monitor this play to make sure it does not go too far. This will reap benefits later, as your kittens will have learned early to moderate their aggression. They will still learn what they need to know, and the dominance issue will naturally resolve itself. So don't feel guilty watching your kittens beat the crap out of each other - after all, it's only natural!
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Treating Diabetes in Cats

Replacing the missing insulin will be a priority in the treatment of your cat's diabetes. However, nutrition is just as important - and not just in the sense of timing meals with insulin injections. There is some evidence that a natural diet can alleviate many symptoms of diabetes, and sometimes even reverse the disease entirely.

The diet, of course, must be homemade. Drs. Donald Strombeck and Richard Pitcairn are both in agreement on this score. A commercial diet full of fillers, toxins and carbohydrates cannot be good for a diabetic patient, so it makes perfect sense. For cats, a homemade diet made primarily of meat (with some grains and vegetables) will often reverse the disease, according to Pitcairn. Cats are obligate carnivores, so it is not surprising that giving them what they naturally would seek out for themselves can also heal them.

In addition to this regimen, Pitcairn suggests supplementing the cat's diet with calcium (a pinch), vitamin E (200 IU per day) and brewer's yeast. I would go even further and suggest a homemade supplement containing all of the above, plus other nutrients, as well. Unlike with diabetic dogs and humans, fiber has no proven value to cats with diabetes. As the cat recovers, you can feed a regular homemade diet; for instance, mine is approximately 15% vegetables and 15% grain, with the rest being made up of meat.

The new diet and supplementation is crucial not only because of the insulin insufficiency but because of the serious nature of diabetes. If supplying the missing hormone was all that was necessary, people and animals would be as well as the unaffected population, as long as they took their medication. We know, however, that this is not so. Pancreatic inflammation is common, and damage to blood vessels and nerves is almost impossible to avoid, given enough time. Small capillaries, such as those feeding blood to the eyes, are often the first to die off, leading to blindness. The best way to put off these complications is to make the animal as hardy as possible, and the best way to do that is through excellent nutrition. With this type of diet, it may be possible to avoid drug therapy entirely!
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What Causes Diabetes in Cats?

Diabetes mellitus is a condition that is becoming ever more prevalent in both human and animal populations. The disease affects all mammals similarly, and the symptoms for humans and animals are very much the same. The islets of Langerhans, located in the pancreas, either secrete no insulin or not enough to be able to convert the glucose from carbohydrate-heavy foods into a form usable by the body. The latter situation causes adult-onset or Type 2 diabetes in humans, and is very often due to poor nutrition and obesity.

With cats (and dogs), the commercial diets they are commonly fed are definitely suspect, since there are many added sugars and carbohydrates that would not be present in a natural diet. Dr. Richard H. Pitcairn also points out that, just as with humans, diabetes is very possibly a form of auto-immune disease in animals. He notes that over-vaccination can actually bring on this disease, and that diabetic animals should no longer be vaccinated at all.

With insulin either not present or present but ineffective, blood glucose levels soar. Because the body cannot transform this glucose into energy that is bio-available, it simply moves through the kidneys and out of the body. The lack of usable nutrients and energy causes the animal to eat voraciously, often as they lose ground nutritionally. As the body struggles to dilute the high sugar content of the blood, thirst increases.

Usually, the first symptom the owner notices is that the cat is increasing its water intake and urinating much more than usual. If the cat is an outdoor pet, however, this change many not be noticeable until the disease has progressed so far as to be virtually untreatable. Although the owner may notice some weight loss and decreased energy levels in their pet, they may attribute these changes to natural aging, particularly since this disease usually shows up in middle-aged and older cats. Therefore, by the time the owner is concerned enough to have the cat checked by a veterinarian, the physiological damage caused by diabetes may be irreversible. Fatty liver disease, chronic pancreatic inflammation, nerve damage and circulatory insufficiency are all side effects of untreated diabetes.

The situation is not without hope, however. Treatment, generally consisting of drug and nutritional therapy, can prolong life. Tomorrow's post will discuss these issues.
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Grieving for a Lost Pet

Losing a pet, either to traumatic injury or disease, is always heartbreaking. After all, we love our companion animals just like members of our own family, which, in the truest sense, they really are. As a matter of fact, many would say that pets are more forgiving and less judgmental than family members!

The grief we experience at this loss is real as well. Those who don't understand may pooh-pooh it, but the pain we feel is very real. It is nothing to feel ashamed about, or apologize for. It is a natural byproduct of love, for which none of us should ever be sorry.

Some people who have put their pet to sleep compound their grief by second-guessing themselves. They wonder if they weren't a bit hasty, if there might not have been another alternative. Don't let this happen to you. We have within our power to end our pets' suffering, something we cannot do for human family members. We each know our pets as well as we know ourselves, so we feel it when we know that there is nothing more to do. With your veterinarian's concurrence, you ended the suffering. You did the right thing, rest assured.

If this was your only pet, you probably feel the loss more keenly than those with multi-pet households. You have no animal to comfort you, and the house seems empty. If you have other pets, you also see their confusion and grief. It's a difficult situation, but will get better with time. Cry, and think about your well-loved pet. In a few days, the sadness will time out and you will see the proverbial light at the end of the tunnel. Before long, you will be remembering not the end of your pet's life, but all the good times.

That's when it is time for the ultimate grief remedy: A new pet! Visit your local shelter and bring home another animal to love. Your other pets will be a bit annoyed, but will forget their sadness, too. If you have no other pets, then you really are on a new adventure. Enjoy!
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Protecting Pets from Outdoor Environmental Toxins

The great outdoors presents many opportunities for pets to become exposed to poisonous substances. The arrival of spring brings with it some particular hazards that dog and cat owners should be aware of, as well:

Cocoa hull mulch: Two people have emailed me recently regarding this hazardous material. Theobromine, the ingredient in chocolate and cocoa that makes it so poisonous to cats and dogs, is also present in this mulch made from the hulls of the cocoa bean. Dogs have died after ingesting this product, and it is equally dangerous for cats. If you must mulch your gardens, use another type; there are many alternatives.

Compost heaps: Some dogs can't seem to resist diving in and sampling the contents of these piles, newly visible after a winter of snow cover. Some veterinarians call this "garbage gut": The dog becomes ill after rooting around and finding a few not-completely composted delicacies. Usually they recover without permanent damage, but a trip to the vet is usually in order. A similar, more dangerous problem occurs when dogs ingest the carcasses of animals that died during the winter. Their decomposing bodies were partly frozen, but are now able to rot away with the warmer weather. The smell often attracts free-roaming dogs, who can develop pancreatitis and other symptoms of poisoning.

Pesticides: Lawn-care companies use a toxic brew to produce those green lawns, and animals who walk on freshly-treated surfaces can become ill. These chemicals can be absorbed through the pads of the feet, and cats will also lick these toxins off of their bodies. Insecticides used to control ants and termites are also dangerous to pets. Use natural alternatives whenever possible and don't allow your pets to roam onto neighbor's treated lawns.

Automotive fluids: Dogs and cats love to drink out of driveway puddles, but can get more than they bargained for when contaminants such as radiator fluid, oil and transmission fluid that leaked from parked vehicles are mixed in. Also, be sure to store these products on high shelves if your pets are allowed in your garage, since many pets actually like the taste of anti-freeze and may seek it out if they can smell it.

This list represents only a portion of the poisonous substances pets are exposed to in our modern life, and it's up to us to keep them safe. They look to us to protect them, so be aware of these outdoor toxins and take steps to protect your pet.

Protecting Pets from Indoor Environmental Toxins

We live in a toxic world, no doubt. Environmental toxins and contaminants cause illness in all living creatures. While much of this pollution is not within our personal control, some of it certainly is, and it is well worth the effort to make our own immediate environs as toxin-free as possible. Here are some well- and not-so-well-known poisons that we can eliminate from our personal realms to help keep our pets, as well as ourselves, as healthy as possible:

Household cleaners: Keep all store-bought cleaners away from your pets. Better yet, don't buy them at all. You can easily make your own cleaners at home from common items such as baking soda and white vinegar. Use shampoo as an all purpose cleaner, but be aware that dandruff shampoos contain carcinogenic ingredients and should be avoided.

Pesticides: Indoor pesticides used for roaches and ants contain chemicals that can sicken or kill your pet. Use more natural methods of pets control, such as keeping food preparation areas clean and clearing brush and trees that touch your home and therefore provide an easy entrance for ants. It goes without saying, of course, that mothballs are extremely toxic and should never be used under any circumstances.

Air fresheners: These products contribute considerably to indoor air pollution and should be avoided. Many of these contain phthlates, a known hormone disruptor. Additionally, your pet could conceivably be poisoned if he licks the product, especially if some of the actual chemical stick is visible. Keeping your house clean is the best way to control indoor odors.

Laundry Products: According to Prevention magazine, all of the most popular laundry detergents and softeners contain chemicals that the Environmental Protection Agency considers toxic or hazardous. Remember that you are washing your pet's bedding with these products (as well as your own)! Use plant-based, dye-and-fragrance free detergents; avoid softeners. Never let your pet play with dryer sheets, even ones that have been used.

Indoor paints: Buy only low VOC (volatile organic compounds) paints and use during good weather so that you can open windows to vent and allow the product to "gas off" over a period of two or more weeks. Clean up well after each painting session, and never allow your pet into the room you are currently painting. Use only latex paint, so that you can at least clean up tainted paws with soap and water in case of an accident.

Tomorrow: Wait! There's more!
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A New Kitty for Miss P.

A short while ago, our neighbor Miss P. mentioned to us that she would like to adopt a new cat. She has always had many pets, but over the past two years their numbers have been decreasing. After the recent loss of Mr. D., her German Shepherd, her cat Punkin has been pretty lonesome. Miss Molly, the "retired" old lady cat, isn't much fun for him to play with. Upon hearing this comment, both J. and I immediately offered to accompany P. on this adoption quest. The date was set for a week ago Saturday, the 10th. A local garden center was hosting a kitten adoption day with the Dakin Animal Shelter, similar to what the shelter had done with local banks a while back. It was decided that a kitten would be a better choice than another adult, who would most likely be considered an interloper by Miss P.'s two cats.

At the appointed time, we all piled into our car and set off. As we discussed cats and kittens en route, Miss P. said, "One thing is for sure: I'm not getting another tri-color cat!" Miss Molly is a calico, and, as we have discussed here before, they certainly have their own special ways. We were all sure that there would be plenty of kittens to choose from, so color would not be a problem. Shortly, we arrived at our destination. Happy as clams, we all made for the door of the garden center, sure that many kittens awaited us there.

It didn't take long to ascertain that there weren't any kittens on the premises. We asked and were told that the adoption day was the next Saturday. Miss P. had called that very morning to check on the time, plus there was a sign out front announcing "Kitten Adoption Saturday", but with no posted date. Disappointed, we decided to go straight to the Dakin shelter in a nearby town to examine the merchandise at the very source.

As we entered the shelter, cages of adult cats greeted us. They were all very handsome, but where were the kittens? Oh, we were told again, they didn't have any kittens. What about the garden center's gala the very next weekend? They were going to bring kittens from their larger facility for that event. Did we want to look around, anyway? Well, what the heck, we said. We're here, so we might as well see what they have to offer.

It was lucky that we did. In another room, we immediately noticed a young female, very frisky and friendly. A four-month-old tortoiseshell, she was incredibly cute. But, another tri-color? Miss P. looked dubious, but was soon under her spell. We all took turns petting her and unanimously decided that this was the one. Wouldn't Punkie be surprised!

As the shelter employee clipped her nails, she writhed and squirmed in a most entertaining manner. When we got back to Miss P.'s house, Libby (as she was to be called) immediately set out to make the place hers. As Miss P. said later, "It's like she's been living her for years."

Another happy adoption story...with a moral. If you are ready to open your heart to a (or another) pet, don't be discouraged because the "ideal" you had in mind is not available. Look around the shelter, take it all in. Chances are the one you didn't know you wanted is right there waiting for you!
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Diagnosis and Treatment of Liver Disease

If you suspect your cat has liver disease, make an appointment with your veterinarian as soon as possible. The longer you wait, the more liver tissue will be destroyed and the less treatable your cat's condition will be. Your vet will order blood work for a liver function test, which should give you an accurate assessment of the situation.

If the test is positive for disease, time is of the essence. The only real treatment is dietary; the animal must immediately be put on a homemade diet. Dr. Strombeck notes that while commercial cat food does not directly cause hepatic disorders, it can certainly exacerbate the problem once it appears. These foods are full of chemicals and fillers, and, as we all now know, substances like melamine. Continuing on with such a diet will only speed the destruction of liver tissue.

As Strombeck states, there is not really any drug therapy available for this problem. The entire treatment consists of nutritional therapy. Homemade food saves the liver from having to continually screen out ingested toxins from the animal's blood. Since many cats become anorectic (lack of appetite) with this disease, it is imperative that the food that is eaten is nutritionally available.

If lack of appetite is a problem, adding chicken fat to the meal will often get an anorectic cat eating. Although it seems counter-intuitive to add fat to a diet for liver dysfunction, Strombeck writes that this does not seem to cause a problem for these animals. The real problem comes with fasting, whereby fat stores in the liver become metabolized for energy, thus releasing fatty acids into the bloodstream. The presence of these ketones in the blood is very dangerous to cats, which is why cats should never be allowed to fast for more than two days. Sardines are also used to get anorectic cats eating again, and are beneficial because of the high vitamin B12 content.

In addition to several small homemade meals each day, a cat with hepatic disease will also benefit from supplementation. Strombeck warns against too much vitamin A, which can be injurious to the liver. Elevated levels of copper, often present in commercial foods, is also problematic. Vitamins E, K and C are all very useful for cases of liver disease, and Strombeck notes that additional zinc is desirable not only because many animals with liver problems are deficient, but zinc competes with copper for absorption, reducing the latter's presence in the body.

Despite the fact that a low-protein diet would benefit an ailing liver, cats need high levels of protein in their diets. The best source to use is chicken, which is readily available and more easily digested. Supplement with taurine, as well as B vitamins which cats tend to deplete when they have suppressed appetites. Nutritional therapy represents the best method of preserving both the quality and the quantity of your ailing cat's life.
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